If you're planning to do the timing belt on your Kia Sedona yourself
GET OUT THE SWEAR JAR!
GET OUT THE SWEAR JAR!
Thanks to my very knowledgeable friend, Marc (above), my 05 Kia Sedona has a fresh timing belt, water pump, and both serpentine belts. I bought a new tensioner but am returning it to the kia dealer as the old one works just the same as the new one, and the new one runs about $140 w/ tax. I bought most of the other parts at RockAuto.com which proved to be very cheap compared to local auto-parts chains. I used a dayco belt at 64.99. Most local dealers wanted over $110 for whatever they were selling. I could have purchased a Gates from Rock Auto at like $54 but thought dayco would be better. Interesting tidbit here; the OEM was gates, but I couldn't find that info anywhere beforehand. Now you know at my expense. Also, that belt is massive and wide. I sincerely beleive it would last an easy 120k miles. The original was in great shape at 76K miles.
Here's the gist of what's happening behind the plastic covers.
I didn't remember to take pictures until we were putting it back together, but these should prove much more helpful than the nonexistent pics anywhere else.
From under the van looking up
From the front of the van. Yeah DOCH are a *&%^$ to keep right unless you have a special tool for that. They have marks that you line up to be assured everything is in time and at TDC (Top Dead Center), but these things want to spring their own direction, and every tooth counts.
Showing the alternator which had to be removed to get to an engine mound bolt under it. This was a swear jar moment. Actually, it lasted much longer than a moment.
Below shows engine mount that must be removed.
The thing is there's tons of wires and difficult routing, hard to reach bolts, and no manuals available except the $200 manual from the dealer. Yikes. Actually I downloaded one from some website, but it proved to be pretty worthless and only partially accurate.
I hope these pictures help. Good luck.
I hope these pictures help. Good luck.
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ReplyDeleteI have a question for those who exchanged the timing belt Kia Pride. Is it complicated, whether it is better to give the car to a mechanic?
ReplyDeleteI did this job about 3 years ago on my 2004 Sedona EX. You are correct, the space is tight and the service information is limited. But I found a lot of information at kia-forums.com. I did job at 60K miles. I only did the belt and idler pulleys, I did not change the tensioner or water pump then. I now have 124k miles and will probably do everything you did at 130k miles. In your last picture, there is the covered wire with the connector, I removed that wire because it is a factory diagnostic connector. The hidden alternator bolt was a bear, even when someone else described the location. I did not fully remove the alternator, I left is loose between the radiator and engine block.
ReplyDeleteGreat information thanks for the post and the pics. I was going to replace the T-belt on my 05 Sedona my self but after looking at it I'm taking it to the dealer. My swear jar is already full from the front struts. (-:
ReplyDeleteSetting the timing is pretty straight forward. Line up the timing mark on the crankshaft, set the belt and brace it from the bottom with a piece of Styrofoam or cardboard. Wrap the belt around the upper bearing and front outer cam, adjust the timing marks and pull belt tight continue on to the 2nd front cam, hold this in place with a clip or clothes pin. The belt goes down around the water pump and up the rear cam. Using a 17mm wrench, turn the cam to the timing mark, wrap the belt and tightly to the timing mark, holding both the belt and cam in place. (It helps if you can get a helper). Next, do the same with the far rear cam, align it to the timing mark and wrap the belt around it. Pull the belt from the bottom to hold the cams and belt in place. Place a clip or clamp on the bottom of the back cam with belt to hold it in place. Release the belt and cam and check your timing marks, it should hold itself. Next, wrap the belt around the bottom adjustment bearing. Adjust the bearing with a needle nose pliers and a 14mm socket, rotate the adjuster with the pliers to tighten the belt, hold it tightly while tightening the center bolt. Belt and bolt should be snug, repeat if necessary. Install the auto adjuster (pin in) beneath the adjustment bearing. Remove the clips from the cams. Next, rotate the crankshaft a couple of turns to insure the cams and pistons don't interfere with each other. Rotate the crankshaft to its timing mark and recheck the timing mark on each of the cams. If everything looks in order, pull the pin on the auto adjuster, remove the styro, put the lower cover on and the harmonic balancer, inside, outside belts and everything else back together. I've done this by myself about a half dozen times. It gets easier each time.
ReplyDeleteSpecial Note: If you find that your engine is not running right, recheck your timing. I had one situation that despite my best effort, the engine stayed out of time. After looking at the timing mark pictures on the KiaTechInfo site, I noticed that the back sensing blade behind the crank sprocket had slipped and did not match up correctly. I had to pry the sprocket and sensing blade off the shaft, then realign and secure them together or replace them.